21 May 2015
My initial skepsis of what to expect of a celebrity TV chef's restaurant was dissolved straight after entering the large halls of Hamburgs 'It-Restaurant' Bullerei in the district Schanzenviertel. It was far from the kitsch commercial type of concept designed to target the masses - although the location was large enough to accommodate masses - its standard of quality where high.
Tim Mälzer made his Bullerei, which opened in 2009, with a lot of thought to detail, charme and a good portion of personality and humour. Its not at all the 'prestige' restaurant ownership which is just kept for profile but never visited, on the contrary, Tim Mälzer is 'on premises' regulary and cooks there himself too.
With a stripped down interiour and brachial elements combined with art, plenty of pot flower and cozy benches on long wooden tables made it feel comfortable & casual. The Bathrooms, made to look like stalls with feeding thoughs functioning as washbasins, seemed as though they escaped from a 'designer farm' - the open kitchen and walls seamed with pictures of the team made it personal - the art made it modern - the way it was all combined made it understatedly chic.
The menu relies heavily on Meat - but with veggie options and fair pricing. Cuts are large, sides rather small, ordering more than one side recommendable.
What to order:
I had the 'Bullenfutter' (bull feed) as starter - its a salad made to look like a lush heap of bulls feed. Vegetarian, fresh, light but large dish - just like what the bull would order.
For main course you can then proceed to the bull, which sounds a bit morbid, but thats the reality of eating meat - in my case beef. Theres a grilled 'Skirt' from the US Black Angus - at 300g I had to take a doggy bag - but OHH was it worth it! Sides for the grillades are cole salad, grilled corn and large choice of other side dishes to choose from.
The 'Bullerei' also claims to have the best Burrata (I didn't try it) in town. Special Cuts and Daily Catches of Fish can be asked for. For Dessert theres creative things such as Kardamom Mousse, Rosemary Icecream, Fruit Tartar or Cheese variations offered. The Menu as a whole is creative, humourous, providing the odd and/or funny fact about its foods.
If you are in Hamburg, in a meaty mood and hungry - Bullerei is the place to go. Make a reservation as its very popular, & show up a bit early for a drink at the bar.
The service is friendly, efficient but unflexible - attempts at 'special orders' are frowned upon. So just try to find something on the menu that you are totally okay with - and you will be perfectly served.